On the go in the East of Hamburg with Carmen Kunstein
Welcome to the East of Hamburg! Or more precisely in Bergedorf, Wandsbek, Hammerbrook and Rothenburgsort! Few areas are as diverse as the east of Hamburg. Here, the harbour cranes and industrial culture in Rothenburgsort and Hammerbrook meet conservation areas, meadows and woods on the border with Schleswig-Holstein.
Moin, my name is Carmen Kunstein. I work as a gardener in the borough of Bergedorf. Life here is a little quieter than in the city, which I can nonetheless reach in a short time with the S-Bahn. From Hammerbrook, through Rothenburgsort until Bergedorf, the east of Hamburg is full of contrasts that are worth a visit. I invite you to join me on my way to my favourite spots.
From the castle to the Dune
The day begins in Bergedorf with a French breakfast in Café La Petite Rue (Sachsentor 29). It is slightly hidden in a passage and, in the morning, the smell of fresh croissants and homemade cakes pervades the air. From here, I reach the castle in Bergedorf in only a few minutes. In this sole castle in Hamburg, an exhibition informs about the history of the borough and the Vierlande, the latter being the rural area around Bergedorf. The gardens of the castle are located right next to it, inviting people to take a stroll between the lime trees and the river Bille. A market takes place here twice a week, where people sell fresh goods from the Vier- and Marschlanden. I saunter along the market and chat with some stand owners. After I visit the market, I hop on my city bike. All around Bergedorf, many bike trails invite you to discover this region. Along the Bille, I continue to cycle in the direction of Lohbrügge, past the meadows and the woods, to finally arrive at the last shifting dune in Hamburg, the Boberg. Originally, there was a dune landscape from Berliner Tor in the St. Georg area up to Bergedorf. By now, it can only be found in the conservation area of Boberger Niederung.
Did you know?
In the 19th century the trade with leeches was a worthwhile occupation. The so called "Ihlenfänger" stored the leeches along the bille in ponds.
By foot, by bike or by boat
Nearby, the restaurant Dorfkrug (Boberger Furtweg 1) serves traditional German dishes. They place value on the use of fresh ingredients, such as venison, which is endemic to this region. After lunch, I get back on my bike and continue to cycle in the direction of Hamburg-Rothenburgsort, past the airfield Boberg, while I can see the gliders above. On the Elbe cycling track along the dike in the direction of the Elbe bridges, I reach the Wasserkunst Elbinsel (Kaltehofe Hauptdeich 6-7). Early on, this was the place where drinking water used to be filtered. Today, the site is an industrial monument. One part of the island is a conservation area not accessible to the public. However, it is possible to get an impression of the diversity of species on the island by doing the informative nature walking trail. On the way back across the bridge, I allow myself to pause and enjoy the amazing view over the Elbe river in Café Entenwerder 1 (Elbpark Entenwerder). It sits on a pontoon at the north of the Elbe river and offers lots of possibilities to sit down and relax on the mixed compilation of colourful furniture. If sometimes I do not feel like cycling, I take the S-Bahn back to Bergedorf or hop on one of the ferries that take off close to the Hammerbrook S-Bahn station. The ferry line in Bergedorf takes its way through the Marschlande down the Dove Elbe, past Moorfleet and Allermöhe. A beautiful 3-hour tour.
Just like New Orleans
In the evening, I take the S-Bahn from Entenwerder back to Bergedorf. It takes only 14 minutes from the Rothenburgsort S-Bahn station. I enter restaurant Lavastein. (Serrahnstraße 3-5). It is located directly at the Bergedorf port and has a versatile menu with German and Italian dishes. I really like the mixed fish platter with lobster sauce. For over 50 years, an audience of music lovers meets up at the (Weidenbaumsweg 13-15). Every Friday, the Jazzclub Bergedorf opens its doors. Live bands play Swing and Jazz just the way it used to be played in the south of the United States. Only when it comes to the drinks do I stick to the Northern way – I usually get an Alsterwasser, a mix of lemonade and beer.